除了空气以外，我的生活很好

I'm a bit disappointed in myself today. I was absolutely planning on going to Ritan/Temple of Sun Park this afternoon when I left work, because it's less than two blocks from the apartment I've been living in. But then after jostling between dozens of people on metro, sliding through interchanges in sandals that have walked too many miles, sweating incessantly, finally making it to the 21st floor of the building feeling tired and slightly hungry-- and then I checked the U.S. Embassy's most recent AQI, air quality index, update.  不好！It was in the red Unhealthy zone for PM 2.5, those small particles that can do some serious damage.  Here, check it out yourself :  http://aqicn.org/city/beijing/

Maybe it's better at this point, but I don't know, that was enough of a deterrent not to leave the apartment.  That, and when you can't see more than a few dozen meters, sort of ruins the enjoyment of park-going.  I might be over dramatizing (wouldn't be surprised), but the air pollution makes my eyes water and if I keep the conditioner on or the windows open, I end up hacking and blowing out dust from my body the next morning.  I have to figure out some way to cope with this, less I scare myself out of a decent quality of life this summer because I know Beijing has so much to offer.  Gah!  Anyone have any advice?

In other updates, Mary and I went our separate ways on Sunday because she's back at school.  I've been couch-surfing off the amazing generosity of my friend Anna this week.  Her apartment is also only three metro stops from my internship, in a building development located behind a sterility hospital.  Keep making that One-Child Policy easy for everyone to follow, China!

It's a small, simple flat, and despite the concrete floors Anna's made it charming with plants, mix-matched upholstery, and her elegant aesthetic.  And best of all, there is a usable kitchen!  So of course after settling in, I took the five minute walk to the grocery store and it was honestly like therapy.  My parents know best that letting me loose in Wegmans (a western New York grocery store sort of like Whole Foods except less expensive) with a credit card is more dangerous than me in a mall (though both are arguably a poor idea :D).  I had 'budget' on the mind as well, and after much consideration in every aisle, I was able to purchase a week's worth of breakfast and dinner groceries for less than 30 RMB, or 6 U.S. dollars.  Can you believe that overflowing bag of onions was 2 RMB/35 cents?!  If there's one thing I'll always appreciate about China, it is their value of food and the price affordability.  

So after not cooking a meal for myself since February, I fired up the wok and made a huge vegetable stir-fry with eggs.  Everything was right in the world.

Beijing, like every Chinese city, is in a constant state of destruction, construction, and rebirth.

My internship with The China Foundation Center (CFC) is going well.  I am still not quite used to a 8:30-5:30 all-week desk job, but it's a really great taste of a possible future. The organization was established in 2010 by leading Chinese philanthropic leaders in an effort to bring more transparency to China's growing social sector.  Organized philanthropy is not yet integral to the public psyche, largely due to the social disruption from the market transition.  In light of so much corruption and suspicion of money being mishandled, many people don't trust non-government groups.  CFC produces annual publications on non-profit organization trends, and have China's most comprehensive searchable data base of non-profits' missions, locations, management teams, financial reports if available, and so on.  By promoting the accessibility of this type of knowledge, hopefully the government, public, corporations, grant advisers, etc. will gain understanding and trust in the social sector.  I'm also learning much about the U.S. social sector (IRS tax forms, anyone?) because China is turning to our well-established tradition of philanthropy as a model.

Looking up, that's the building I work in (on the second floor though).  

The view out the floor of The China Foundation Center offices.  Not bad when there isn't smog, or when other employees (from different companies) aren't smoking next to the window.

In an effort to save money, I really have been eating the same dinner all week.  However, during lunch break, I go out with the other ladies and 'splurge'.  I really enjoy lunch time because our office is fairly quiet, so I try to practice my Chinese (which is in danger of being lost!) and learn about their lives.  I love all the new foods I've been able to eat; there are so many restaurants on our street that I never would have known about, largely because I can't read the menus.  We've managed to go to a different location every lunch this week!

Tomorrow I'm hopping to another apartment of one of my friends from ultimate frisbee, that I met when I played at a Ningbo tournament back in April.  It's quite lovely how a casual obsession with this off-beat sport has lead to so many connections with great people and unique perspectives of China.  I went to the Beijing team's pick-up practice Wednesday night, and that was cathartic to be sprinting around again.  Here's to hoping my lungs hold it together!

Listening: Chopin #13 In C Minor